Machine for spirally sewing the initial parts of hats or other articles from strips of material and for finishing such articles



Jan. 28, 1930. H. GROSSMANN ET AL 1,745,324 MACHINE FOR SPIRALLY SEWING THE INITIAL PARTS OF HATS OR OTHER ARTICLES FROM STRIPS OF'MATERIAL AND FOR FINISHING SUCH ARTICLES Filed March 1a, 1925 mm W Patented Jan. 28, 1930 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE HERMANN GBOSSMANN AND ALEXANDER GROSSMANN, OF DRESDEN, GERMANY MACHINE FOR SPIRALLY SEWING THE INITIAL PARTS OF HATS OR OTHER ARTICLES FROM STRIPS OF MATERIAL AND FOR FINISHING SUCH ARTICLES Application filed March 18, 1925, Serial 1%.

Our invention relates to a machine for spirally sewing the initial parts of hats or other articles from strips of material and for finishing such articles.

The initial parts of articles from strips sewn in the shape of a spiral, for instance, straw hats, were heretofore made by hand because sewing machines of known types were not suitable for sewing the narrow spiralwindings of the initial parts. Hand sewing, however, is slow work and even the most skilled operator will only be able to sew a limited number of such initial parts per unit of time, the more so, as the work must be uniform and therefore requires very exact sewing. It is an object of our invention to eliminate hand sewing altogether and to enable the initial parts to be finished into the complete work on the same machine.

In the drawings affixed to this specification and forming part thereof, a machine embodying our invention is illustrated diagrammatically by way of example.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is an end elevation of a sewing machine viewed from the left,

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the parts illustrated in Fig. 1 but arranged at right angles with respect to that figure.

In performing our invention, we provide a machine of the usual type but in addition to arranging the feed dog a partly at the right-hand side of the needle I), the guide 7 for the strip (Z to be sewn is arranged at an angle to the motion of the feed dog a when the initial parts are being sewn, this being effected by rocking the guide about the axis of the needle 6, so that, when finishing the initial parts into the complete hat, the guide may be adjusted in parallel to the motion of the feed dog a. When the guide 7 extends at an angle to the motion of the feed dog, the center of the work 0 is at the left and at the rear of the needle I), as shown in Fig. 2. It

i has been found that this is important for making the initial parts, as with the usual arrangement of the guide 7 in parallel to the motion of the feed dog a it is impracticable to rotate the work 0 in conformity with the feeding motion imparted to the strip d 16 868, and in Germany September 11, 1924.

by the feed dog a. The work 0 and particularly its initial part, is of small diameter, and it is difficult to adapt the rotation imparted to it by means of a needle or the like which holds the work down on the table 6 at slight pressure, to the feeding motion of the strip (Z as the feeding motion is eomparatively too rapid when guide 7' is set in parallel to the motion of the feed dog a from the start. At the point where the strip cl has been sewn to the work, it is arrested in its feeding motion and tends to bulge away from the work 0 when moved forward by the feed dog a. On the other hand, with the guide f at an angle to the motion of the feed dog a while the initial part is being sewn, the feed dog will partly engage the initial part at its edge in a position which is favorable for its rotation and the consequence will be, that the strip (Z will always join the work 0 in correct position, whereas with the usual position of the guide 7' in parallel to the motion of the feed dog a the dog will feed only the strip, causing it to lead the initial part and to bulge, as described.

The initial part c, which has been prepared for sewingin the usual manner, is placed on the work table 6 of the machine, held onto it at slight pressure, by means of a needle or the like, and with increasing diameter of the work it is displaced laterally by? means of the needle on the table a. In order to enable the initial parts to be finished into the complete hats, the feed dog a is extended to the left at the rear of the needle I) so that it will feed the work as well as the strip (1 after the initial part 0 has attained a cer tain diameter. The angular position of the guide 7 is only favorable during the initial stage of the sewing operation, and, for finishing it is preferable to adjust the guide in parallelto the direction in which the feed dog a is moving. When the work 0 has attained a certain diameter, the strip (Z no longer tends to form a bend as in the old method, and the angular position of the guide f would interfere with the finishing of the work. Preferably, the guide 7 is carried on the presser foot 9 and the foot is adapted to be rocked about the axis of the needle I), but

obviously the guide might also be arranged to be rocked with respect to the foot, but in view of the small size of the guide f this is less desirable.

Z is a sleeve secured to the bar 11 of the presser foot 9., for instance by means of a set screw 16. m is a sector secured to, or integral with, said sleeve, the edge of which is curved on an arc with the axis of the needle b as its center. A slide n is seated on the sector on and the presser foot 9 is secured to the slide a by means of a pin 0, an eye g", and a nut s. The slide n is curved on the same radius as the sector m and may be provided with a teat g for facilitating its operation. It will rock about the axis of the needle I) together with the slide a, so as to fix the guide f at any angle to, or in parallel with, the motion of the feed dog a. A wing nut p is provided for holding the slide n on the sector m. By these means, the guide f is adjusted in the desired position with respect to the feed dog a during the sewing of the initial part c and during the finishing of the work.

1' is a curved extension at the guide f which serves as a support for the strip d. t is an upwardly bent arm of the presser foot g which extends in parallel to the guide f on the opposite side of the needle b and is curved upwards at one end.

We wish it to be understood that we do not desire to be limited to the exact details of construction shown and described, for obvious modifications will occur to a person skilled in the art.

We claim 1. Machine for spirally sewing parts from strips of material comprising a work table, a needle adapted to reciprocate with regard to said table, a feed dog arranged to reciprocate in said table on the righthand side of said needle, a presser foot adapted to cooperate with said dog and adapted to rock about the axis of said'needle and a strip guide arranged on said presser foot in front of said needle.

2. Machine for spirally sewing parts from strips of material comprising a work table, a needle adapted to reciprocate with regard to said table, a feed dog arranged to reciprocate in said table on the righthand side of said needle. a presser foot adapted to cooperate with said dog and adapted to rock about the axis of said needle, :1 guide arranged on said presser foot in front of said needle and a presser bar operatively connected with said presser foot, a late secured to the lower end of said presser ar comprising an edge which is carved on a circle about the axis of said needle, said presser foot being adiustably arranged on said'plate, means for ho ding said presser foot in various positions on said plate and a strip guide arranged on-said presser foot.

tures.

HERMANN GRQSSMANN. ALEXANDER GROSSM-ANN. 

